emini

Phil came over and we measured things and trial fitted them and we're fairly sure it will fit. To be really sure we need to take the input shaft out so the motor can go all the way into the bell housing, like it would when the input shaft is reground to fit the motor

Removing the input shaft from the gearbox is tricky because you have to lift the layshaft with it, and to lift that you have to lift the reverse idler and more importantly, the mainshaft. To lift that you have to lift the selector rods and you can't lift them both because there is an interlock to prevent two gears being selected at the same time.

To get the selectors off the selector rods you have to drift out the roll pins arrowed in the picture. Unfortunately they're at the end of long somewhat wobbly shafts -- hammering moves the shaft more than the pin.

Suggestions?

Apart from putting them against a suitable anvil, using some sort of puller seems to be the only sensible solution.

The motor might fit if I make a complex adapter plate which brings the motor inside the bell housing. The gearbox input shaft is bigger than output of the motor and does not require a pilot bearing. Hopefully the input shaft can be ground smaller and a new spline cut so no coupling is required. This will allow the motor to move another 35mm into the bell housing (in the photo it's resting on the end of the input shaft).

I've got the motor on a hoist, but the pile of bricks and bits of wood isn't allowing me to precisely locate the gearbox. There is some scope to raise the whole gearbox and also to rotate it around it's output shafts. I'm hoping that this, combined with moving the motor further into the bell housing, will be enough to allow the other end of the motor to clear the subframe. I'll hang the gearbox from the ceiling and then I should have better luck.